I ordered a USB to TTL Cable to control two Sabertooth 2×25 motor controllers as part of the Robot project.
I plugged it into a Windows PC, and used ‘RoboRealm’ to control the motors via the COM port that appeared. Worked perfectly. Motors, controller, USB to TTL and virtual COM port - excellent.
I then plug the cable into my Linux board and guess what, no driver claims it and I have every standard USB Serial module compiled. AVIT Research’s website also gives no help on Linux support.
The device shows up under lsusb as:
Bus 002 Device 002: ID 10c4:818b Cygnal Integrated Products, Inc.
The solution was luckily simple. After prising open the cable and doing some research, the ‘cp2101′ driver is the one that we want. I’m using 2.6.27.6 but this should work for any cp2101 version.
Tags: 10c4:818b, 2.6.27.6, AVIT Research, com port, cp2101, cygnal integrated products, diff, Linux, Linux robot, lsusb, motor controllers, roborealm, Robot, sabertooth, usb to serial, usb to ttl, virtual com port
After attaching the 4 motors and brackets to the acrylic square, I found that it started to dip slightly due to the weight, and as I’d planned to put a 1.5kg lead acid battery in the center and I realised that this needed to be addressed. Rather than another visit to Homebase for some steel reinforcement, I just stuck (melted) two pieces firmly together with polycarbonate acid glue and then trimmed the edges with an electric saw.
Here is the base, the insulation tape all over the place is to hold down the connectors that I won’t be needing. The motors all contain encoders which I didn’t just want to rip out, so I’ve preserved the connectors for future usage, and just cut the - and + cables in a way that they can easily be reconnected to the connector if I ever want to. They were expensive motors so I didn’t want to ruin them!
If anyone is wondering why I didn’t attach standoff cylinders to the controller’s super large heat sink rather than attaching it directly to the acrylic base [which would normally be a bad idea], it’s because I didn’t have any standoff’s left, and the controllers are capable of 25A per channel. I will never drive them at higher than 4A, and the motors running on 4A for 30m or 2A for 2 hours solidly as a test didn’t generate any noticeable heat on the heat sink at all. At first I had also predicted the use of a fan to suck air in from the base, but I’m not sure it will be necessary, as nothing seems to get remotely hot so far..
I’ve also slightly indented the 4 points where the acrylic cylinders will be glued, just for extra stability. The motors are all wired to the two motor controllers, which has a junction box waiting for 12v now. The picoPSU should arrive some time this week, so hopefully I can get on with it.
The wheels are omnidirectional as they contain rollers. It’s a clever design and it seems to work well. Infact, I’m pleased with the way the motors and wheels ended up. Instead of having to work with two wheels and spending time on calculating angles for servo motors and turn radius, I can just attach 4 motors instead in the configuration that I have and using omnidirectional wheels. The motors will pull a lot of weight and I only have to concern myself with backward and forward for each motor, which in any combination will allow it to move in any direction. Hey, I’m not saying that I ‘invented’ this ingenious combination, just taking the credit for a smart move in implementing it! I have connected a power source directly across each of the motors to test. They are straight, and when I turn them all in the same direction, the board rotates around a ‘very almost perfect’ fixed axis which is great. I had in mind when I was positioning these, that I didn’t want to spend a ton of time in the software compensating for wheels that aren’t straight.
(more…)
Tags: 2x25A, analog voltage, battery, ground, lead acid, Linux, Linux robot, motor, motor controller, omnidirectional wheels, packetized serial, picopsu, rc input, sabertooth, simple serial, the robot, tx pins, usb to ttl
Progress is going really well and I’m happy so far. Unfortunately I didn’t want to show the body yet as it is so far from finished but as I haven’t posted an update in a while I decided to just go with it.
The body is ever so slightly lop sided by a few mm here and there which is a shame however from a short distance you wouldn’t notice, it stands up straight and weight distribution is equal throughout the base plate so I’m happy with it. Ok, ‘professionally’ the body’s a mess however for my zero experience in that kind of work, I’m reasonably happy.
This is the front of it, top is a mounted webcam, to the left of that is a phidgets temperature sensor and top right is a phidgets light sensor. I am waiting to add 8 colored status LEDs around a small flat panel 5v stereo speaker as a ‘mouth’ (I got it from a Nokia phone bundle).
(more…)
Tags: battery pack, distance sensor, IR remotes, irda, LED, light sensor, Linux, Linux robot, MAX232, motor controller, nimh, phidget, phidgets sensor, picolcd, picopsu, polycarbonate glue, sabertooth, serial port, stereo speaker, temperature sensor, the robot, usb phidgets, usb sensor kit, webcam
Some more hardware has arrived! Very compact USB hub with external power input, Startech USB sound adapter (line out/mic), 4Gb USB mass storage, USB Trust Webcam.
All plug and play, all works out of the box. I’m using Alsa to drive the USB sound adapter, and v4l for the webcam. Works great and the majority of the hardware works.
Now I haven’t added any pictures to this entry, as I don’t think there’s much point in looking at more pictures of a messy table! I hope that my next post will include pictures of a (reasonably) cool acrylic body. I’m still waiting for the acrylic sheets to arrive though.
The two remaining parts of the hardware to get working are wheel movement and power/battery.
With all board hardware working excluding motors, we’re on 12V/600-700mA which I think is pretty fantastic.
I’m going to go for a NiMH battery pack (12V/10Ah) and not plan to generally discharge more than 12V/2A. The motors will realistically be in use rarely as it’ll be making short slow and unfrequent movements, rather than racing around at full speed!
The battery pack will connect directly to both motor controllers, as well as to a PICOPSU and then to the board.
So.. next stage is to get all the hardware off the table and into some acrylic casing with a 12V DC power source. Once that’s done I can look further into the motors and battery!
Tags: acrylic, alsa, Linux, Linux robot, nimh, usb sound, v4l, webcam
I’ve recently come across a number of good HOWTOs and some interesting projects over at linuxuk.org that I thought I’d share, and anyhow - I always love a well written HOWTO on something useful!
Learning git - the version control Swiss army knife - http://linuxuk.org/node/62
Tags: git, howtos, Linux, linux howto
The Phidget interface kit arrived and so did a few of the analog sensors that I ordered. I can’t believe just how simple they are to use and just how friendly and comprehensive their SDK is!
Here are some pictures:
This is the interface kit itself. It’s a regular USB device and draws minimal power. Along the top of the board are the analog sensor inputs. Each is connected via a simple 3-pin wire, ground, data and +V. Along the right hand side are 8 simple digital on/off inputs. Along the left hand side are 8 just as simple digital on/off outputs. In this case, I have connected the Phidgets analog light sensor which you can just about see on the left of the picture. Download the Phidgets Linux SDK from their site, compile, and run the examples. The range on the light sensor is fantastic. It advertises 0 to 500 range and does indeed live up to the promise. Pitch black and the sensor reads < 5, and pushed up close against a 400W light, the sensor reads > 480. Normal light conditions and the sensor reads between 30 and 180 - very very useful.
The SDK comes with plenty of examples and is incredibly user friendly! I would recommend these all day long.. it really is plug and play.
And here’s a distance sensor. It’s a simple IR mechanism that ranges from about 1m to 10cm. There are also 10cm to 5mm sensors available. Again, works great, really reliable.
So now these work, I’ve ordered some more and they’re on their way. One temperature sensor, two voltage sensors, some sonar sensors and more IR sensors - fantastic products.
In the mean time, I’ve ordered a load of clear acrylic and plan to start putting a body together shortly.
I’m still having a little trouble talking to the motor controller so if anyone has any I2C knowledge, please please let me know. I don’t want to buy a prebuilt base.. I think it’s cheating.
Tags: Linux robot, phidget, phidgets, Robot, usb interface board
Some hardware has arrived!
So my working space is a little bit of a mess at the moment. There’s no better way of getting started than just getting straight to the point.
The Alix 3c2 main board arrived in good health and works well. On the underside is a 512MB CF card and an Atheros MiniPCI Wifi. I’ve soldered single core wire to the I2C bus pinout. GND, CLK, Data & +3v.
I’ve also soldered bell wire across the power input. It accepts a wide input and so I’ve decided on 12v.
This is my prototype “power distribution board”. Currently it consists of 2 12V/2A regulators, some resistors and a 1000uF/30V smoothing capacitor. It provides 12v to the Alix board, and 12v to the motor controller. If both motors stall, they can use up to 6A, so whilst this is fine for testing the controller board, I’m going to have to replace one of the regulators with a transformer system to provide the necessary power to the motors.
(more…)
Tags: 12v, 38400 8n1, 3c2, 512MB CF card, alix, alix 3c2, atheros, atheros 5212, capacitor, card reader, clk, data, debian, debootstrap, gnd, Hardware, i2c, i2c bus, i2cdetect, Linux, minipci, motor, null modem, power distribution board, prototype, pxe boot, regulator, resistor, serial cable, serial console, smoothing capacitor, solder, transformer, wifi, wire
Dear Blog,
Just to let you know that I most certainly haven’t forgotten about the robot project, I’ve just had a really busy week. I’ve ordered some hardware and expect to have the ALIX main board here in the next day or two. I think my next post will be over the weekend and will hopefully detail [successful] linux installation steps!
Tags: alix, Linux, Linux robot, Robot
mknod is a powerful command with which you can create block or character special files. If you view the man page, you’ll see that you can use it to create block device links and character device links. If you don’t know what these are then don’t worry. The purpose of this tutorial is to explore the FIFO (First In First Out) feature.
A FIFO literally does what it says on the box. The first piece of data to go in is the first piece of data to go out.
The usage of the command is:
Usage: /bin/mknod [OPTION]… NAME TYPE [MAJOR MINOR]
Where MAJOR and MINOR are for the special devices mentioned above.
(more…)
Tags: /bin/mknod, beej, block, C, cat, character, device, echo, fifo, first in first out, Linux, major, man, man page, minor, mknod, shell script, special files
This tutorial will cover how to set up a simple backup job between two machines using rsync and ssh. You will need HOST A and HOST B, whereby HOST B is your target backup service.
On HOST B:
Tags: archive, automated backup, automatic backup, backup, public key, rsync, ssh, ssh key, ssh public key